Historical Fashion Writing: Syria Through The Vogue Lens

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“Match Me Such Marvel” American Vogue (December 1, 1965). Photographed by Henry Clarke. Copyright Condé Nast Publications.

Fashion journalism during a war can reveal more than just pretty outfits. Take for example the photojournalism of Lee Miller during World War II. Serving as a war correspondent for British Vogue, the former model’s work blended the horrors of Nazi-ruled Europe with reporting on women’s lives.

Today, the Syrian Civil War has become a widely discussed topic in the fashion industry,  with topics on where to donate to the decline of the country’s textile industry. American Vogue even had a blunder of an article that praised Asma al-Assad as “glamorous, young, and very chic–the freshest and most magnetic of first ladies.”

Syria Through The Vreeland Lens

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“Match Me Such Marvel” American Vogue (December 1, 1965). Photographed by Henry Clarke. Copyright Condé Nast Publications.

Although reporting on the Syrian Civil War is now common, there have been two significant moments in Vogue’s history where the publication blended Western fashion with Syrian architecture, art, and life. The first occurred during the reign of Diana Vreeland, who as American Vogue’s editor-in-chief from 1962 to 1971 sent her staff to shoot editorials overseas. “You’d take a couple of models, the photographer Henry Clarke, his English assistant Nelson and a hairdresser (usually Olivier a French coiffeur from Alexandre in Paris) and off we went for say three to four weeks to Syria and Jordan,” explained Paris editor of American Vogue Susan Train.

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“Match Me Such Marvel” American Vogue (December 1, 1965). Photographed by Henry Clarke. Copyright Condé Nast Publications.

Models Brigitte Bauer and Editha Dussler posed like suntanned goddesses in front of Roman columns in Palmyra while wearing white dresses with angular cutouts, three-dimensional hairstyles, and over-sized accessories. Fifty years later, ISIS bombings have caused some of the ruins to collapse.

Following the Road 

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“The Road To Damascus” Vogue UK (May 2009). Photographed by Tom Craig. Copyright Condé Nast Publications.

Vogue UK revisited Syria in a May 2009 editorial starring supermodel Stella Tennant titled, “The Road to Damascus.” The editorial featured Tennant in metallic suits and dresses while posing with locals near cultural icons like the Umayyad Mosque. The stunning editorial was shot two years before the country’s civil war, and when compared to the photographs of the country now, displays how quick it all has changed.

For more information on how to help the people of Aleppo, visit Doctors Without Borders and The White Helmets.

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